[AlistDakisa]

Figured I'd get this up here. Its only 3 months away and I have so much I want to do to my car still.

The car club I'm in rents out Road America twice a year, usually April and October. We had a smash (not literally!) last year. Tons of fun for the participants for those of myself who just volunteer their time to work the track.

October 23rd and 24th we have Road America rented out for the entire weekend.

Its a great way to see the track as its one of the few events I've seen that allows people to do a "touring" session. Touring is a 1 hour long session on the track limited to 70mph. So any car can participate. And that 70mph means 70mph on the straights AND in the corners. So you can still push your car plenty hard into a corner as long as you aren't kicking the tail out and roasting the tires.

I usually do the Touring session as I go up there to have fun, and while I do Auto-X my car occasionally, I don't consider it ready for a track like RA yet. A track where I know for a fact my car will do at least 140mph on the front straight before having to haul it back down for a 90* right hander, then do it again about 30 seconds later. My brakes simply won't handle a 20 minute session so its a waste until I upgrade them. However the touring session with its 70mph limit allows plenty of time for brakes to cool down so I can play hard in the corners and relax in the straights.

Though its hosted by a F-body club, all makes/models are welcome, it seems the most popular are the Vettes though, they simply OWN the track. I've ridden in a C6 Z06 vette with a talented driver who could bust low, 2:30's out there, he was hitting 165mph+ avg down the front straight, which is 7/8ths of a mile.



Here's a few videos from past events. Some BMWs, Nissan GTR, vettes, I think an NSX or two. I'm even in a few videos standing at the entrance to the grid. I usually do Tech Inspections and work the Grid later in the day.
http://www.youtube.com/results?searc...d+america&aq=f

[zlopikanikanza]

I would totally love to go if only I had my car on the road. I'm not really a midwesterner,but traveling is fun anyway.

Damn,stupid blonde drivers.

[Xavier_Spinner_Wheels]

Even metallic, or carbon, pads and premium race fluid will only get you so far - a couple of sprint laps, perhaps?
I'm also a recent convert to track days, having been out of Motorsport for quite a few years - unfortunately, circumstances have stopped me for the moment but looking forward to some more playing before long (I hope).

Tracks we use (two clubs, so potentially at least one play day a month)

Taupo - http://www.tauporacetrack.co.nz/defa...9&cid=16&aid=#
Hampton Downs - http://www.hamptondowns.com/assets/i...%20outline.jpg

The first is very flat and the second has a few elevation changes.

Last track day had a couple of R8s also out for a play.

[Baromaro]

Didnt know your car went around corners.

Good to know.

[Xavier_Spinner_Wheels]

Didnt know your car went around corners.

Good to know.

That's one of his priorities...[thumbup]

[Jeffery]

fruitman, all you need to do is bleed brake system and refill with some nice ate super blue or motul racing brake fluid, get some nice cheap solid rotors from napa (not slotted or drilled just plain solid rotors) and some Hawk HP Plus brake pads all the way around and it will be more than enough for several track days at road atlanta

this is the setup i use at new hampshire international speed way on the vette , while it isnt as fast a track as road atlanta it is hard on brakes and i get 3 or 4 track days with five 20 minute sessions with them...the hawk HP plus pads work great and you can drive to the track with them (dont need to be heated up before they stop, though they do work great when hot)

Jack

[AlistDakisa]

fruitman, all you need to do is bleed brake system and refill with some nice ate super blue or motul racing brake fluid, get some nice cheap solid rotors from napa (not slotted or drilled just plain solid rotors) and some Hawk HP Plus brake pads all the way around and it will be more than enough for several track days at road atlanta

this is the setup i use at new hampshire international speed way on the vette , while it isnt as fast a track as road atlanta it is hard on brakes and i get 3 or 4 track days with five 20 minute sessions with them...the hawk HP plus pads work great and you can drive to the track with them (dont need to be heated up before they stop, though they do work great when hot)

Jack

Unfortunately its not the pads thats really the issue. Its the rotor size and calipers that are the problem. They are a mere 10.5" in front, a friend runs NASA and he has to use factory equipment. He had the 10.5" stuff and he had to bow out of the races at Road America because the brakes were fading within 3 to 4 laps. I estimate my car will run about a 2:40 to 2:50 lap at RA, thats what a stock 4th gen Camaro SS runs and i'm lighter with the same power. I'll just do the touring sessions and continue auto-x'ing it.

I'm saving to do a CTS-V brake swap from the later years, there's already a writeup on how to turn down a stock rotor into a hub, and they are selling the brackets. So all I need to do is get a set of rotors/calipers from a CTS-V, turn down the stock thirdgen rotor, and buy teh caliper brackets. Once I do that I'll have 15" brakes up front, and moving up to 14.7" out back. Its gonna cost $$$ but it'll provide me with bullet proof brakes (and a reason to upgrade to a larger wheel, I need 18" wheels to fit the brakes under)

[Xavier_Spinner_Wheels]

Motul 600 is good, needs regular flushing in damp regions though.
'Jack, don't forget your brakes are a LOT better in stock trim than Fruity's.
Drill discs are prone to cracking, but slotted can be effective.

Hmmm, thought it would be easier to find some suitable, affordable upgrades...

[AlistDakisa]

Motul 600 is good, needs regular flushing in damp regions though.
'Jack, don't forget your brakes are a LOT better in stock trim than Fruity's.
Drill discs are prone to cracking, but slotted can be effective.

Hmmm, thought it would be easier to find some suitable, affordable upgrades...

There are cheaper upgrades. I could do a LS1 brake upgrade from a 98+ F-body for about $300 total, that would be 12.25" dual piston, and 12" single piston in back. I already have the LS1 rear brake upgrade (I have a 4th gen LS1 axle) with the C5 Z06 rear calipers. There is also the C4 HD brake setups, and the C5 setups.

Have to rebuild the front steering though now. Its time to replace the mostly 23yr old stock stuff with new HD race ready parts. Will help steering accuracy tremendously.

[Xavier_Spinner_Wheels]

I hope you're going to be using a high ratio rack? One of the best mod's I've found for general use - especially as you're going to be doing some SOLO stuff as well! Better put a good cooler on it as well - it's been known for steering fluid to boil in hard use.

[Xavier_Spinner_Wheels]

mention of brakes reminded my of some Youtube clips from a while back - I hope you don't abuse yours to this extent.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m1dv_...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UocxP...eature=related

[AlistDakisa]

I hope you're going to be using a high ratio rack? One of the best mod's I've found for general use - especially as you're going to be doing some SOLO stuff as well! Better put a good cooler on it as well - it's been known for steering fluid to boil in hard use.

The existing rack is a 12.7:1, about 2.25 turns lock to lock. The mounting style for my car is actually the same as the Delphi 670 series boxes used in NASCARs which are the best recirculating ball setup's you can get. Why recirculating ball when R&P is better? No one makes a R&P setup that works on my car that allows you to keep full steering angle, so yeah you can run it, if you want a 60ft circle. So I will probably purchase it if bench adjusting my steering box isn't enough. The company can give me a custom ratio, as well as custom valving if I want a "high" effort wheel, or a low effort wheel. They even offer speed sensitive valves too I think.

[Xavier_Spinner_Wheels]

IMO, racks are better but mainly because they get rid of the play in the straight ahead position. Once the steering is loaded up, there isn't much between them.
I think you said you've already rebuilt the front end, so that'd have already got rid of most of the slop.

2.25 is already high ratio, unless you're doing a lot of VERY tight turns or getting very sideways, I think you'll be able to wind the lock on fast enough.

[AlistDakisa]

IMO, racks are better but mainly because they get rid of the play in the straight ahead position. Once the steering is loaded up, there isn't much between them.
I think you said you've already rebuilt the front end, so that'd have already got rid of most of the slop.

2.25 is already high ratio, unless you're doing a lot of VERY tight turns or getting very sideways, I think you'll be able to wind the lock on fast enough.

I'll probably have the new box set at 12:1, I think that'll be about 2 turns lock to lock. High effort valving too as the stock valving is so light that you can spin the wheel with your pinky and it really makes the wheel feel vague. But power assist is a MUST, i've driven the car without assist and its near impossible at parking lot speeds and still requires MASSIVE effort at 30 to 40mph (I wouldn't want to have to quickly swerve at those speeds, I'd never turn the wheel fast enough).

The stock valving isn't as responsive as the newer designed boxes are. There is distinct lag on quick changes from right to left or vice versa that the valves just don't switch fast enough. A new box will fix that. Its just one of those things that is still plenty good for the street, but in a racing application the 23yr old steering box (with a paper design thats nearly 40 years old) is just not good enough for anymore.

[Caliwany]

Since I'll be in Indiana the week before, I think I might make the trip up.

Any good hotels in the area?