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Old 10-29-2007, 03:34 AM   #1
GypeFeeshyTes

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Default Shooting fireworks - tips?
Still a few days to go but I will be taking the cam along to our own little display. Whats the best way to shoot fireworks, what kinds settings should I be using? Have a Canon A710, probably not the best for the situation...
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Old 10-29-2007, 04:01 AM   #2
fgjhfgjh

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handholding is going to be a problem. You need a slow enough shutter speed to get a full firework burst (ideally several bursts) but that will be too slow to handhold. Use a tripod and a cable release if you have one. If you have to handhold then you'll need a faster shutter speed, which will mean less firework in shot, and less feeling of movement.
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Old 10-29-2007, 04:07 AM   #3
ephennaCypota

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Should of mentioned, tripod is now sorted

So, any suggested shutter speeds? Not sure we have to many fireworks so I'd rather have a good idea before I start
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Old 10-29-2007, 06:02 AM   #4
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I've got the Canon A610 which has a setting for Firework shots, just havent got the hang of it yet. Thing is, its bloody hard work guessing where the little beggars are going to explode and when, because my camera seemed to take ages from pressing the button to actually taking the shot, more of than not I'd missed it

Here's a couple I took at the World Firework Championships in Southport the other week, to be honest theyre the best of a bad bunch, I got better shots with my mobile phone



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Old 10-29-2007, 06:12 AM   #5
Pdarassenko

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I've got the Canon A610 which has a setting for Firework shots, just havent got the hang of it yet. Thing is, its bloody hard work guessing where the little beggars are going to explode and when, because my camera seemed to take ages from pressing the button to actually taking the shot, more of than not I'd missed it
Yeah, I do have a firework setting too. I guess I'd rather do it myself though so to speak, dont really like relying on auto settings. I reckon I'll have trouble capturing them too
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Old 10-29-2007, 08:49 AM   #6
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The a710 has a manual setting, no?

If it does, you should be able to set the shutter speed to something like 8 seconds, the aperture to somewhere around f/11 or so and the ISO as low as it will go. Then just make use of the timer if you don't/can't use a cable release, pressing the shutter accordingly to get the firework in full bloom. The goal isn't to freeze the action of the explosion; it's to capture all the motion from the full range of the bloom, from the initial pop to the final descent in a billowing, flowery puff.

Best of luck!
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Old 10-29-2007, 09:43 AM   #7
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Also, be mindful of the wind direction + smoke. The smoke from the fireworks may obscure the view of the fireworks, and you'll be left with a smoggy mess.
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Old 10-29-2007, 07:40 PM   #8
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The a710 has a manual setting, no?

If it does, you should be able to set the shutter speed to something like 8 seconds, the aperture to somewhere around f/11 or so and the ISO as low as it will go. Then just make use of the timer if you don't/can't use a cable release, pressing the shutter accordingly to get the firework in full bloom. The goal isn't to freeze the action of the explosion; it's to capture all the motion from the full range of the bloom, from the initial pop to the final descent in a billowing, flowery puff.

Best of luck!
Indeed it has a full manual mode. I wasn't thinking of speeds as long as 8 seconds though. But the way you say it, certainly sounds like I need it. Thanks.
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Old 10-29-2007, 11:02 PM   #9
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The aperture should be the square root of your ISO, shutter set to bulb (if available), lens focus set to infinite. Aim the lens at the sky where to fireworks go off, release the shutter when the "flower" starts and release when it starts to fade.

The result of some of my fireworks shootings:

http://koti.mbnet.fi/mrwalker/fireworks/
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Old 10-30-2007, 01:23 AM   #10
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With a lighter or matches ??
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Old 10-30-2007, 02:00 AM   #11
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The aperture should be the square root of your ISO, shutter set to bulb (if available), lens focus set to infinite. Aim the lens at the sky where to fireworks go off, release the shutter when the "flower" starts and release when it starts to fade.

The result of some of my fireworks shootings:

http://koti.mbnet.fi/mrwalker/fireworks/
what difference does that make btw? I always thought the ISO should be set as low as possible if light isn't so much of an issue ...and that aperture settings were really only used to get depth of field (what are the higher F stop settings used for?)

great pics btw, i'll have to get my camera out on nov 5th and give it a go[thumbup]
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Old 10-30-2007, 03:33 AM   #12
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The aperture should be the square root of your ISO, shutter set to bulb (if available), lens focus set to infinite. Aim the lens at the sky where to fireworks go off, release the shutter when the "flower" starts and release when it starts to fade.
You should be setting your aperture for the sweet-spot of your lens in terms of sharpness (usually around F8-F10), the ISO low to avoid noise (as you'll need a slower shutter speed anyway). Anything above F10 and you'll start to loose quality due to diffraction on most lenses.
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Old 10-30-2007, 03:34 AM   #13
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what difference does that make btw? I always thought the ISO should be set as low as possible if light isn't so much of an issue ...and that aperture settings were really only used to get depth of field (what are the higher F stop settings used for?)

great pics btw, i'll have to get my camera out on nov 5th and give it a go[thumbup]
Actually I don't know, it was a professional photographer that said so in his guide to shooting fireworks. He knew his business so I took it to my heart.
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Old 10-30-2007, 08:52 AM   #14
zithromaxlinks

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With a lighter or matches ??
Neither, probably a punk!


I actually shot my first batch of fireworks without a cable release using my 30D w/ 70-200L using the method I described above. It was difficult to time because of the 10 second timer and the long exposure anywhere form 8 to 10 seconds, but as long as the exposure is still too low short to properly capture any of the surroundings, you can really go much longer without much noticeable difference. Maybe I'll post samples with exif later tonight when I finish my work.
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Old 11-01-2007, 09:17 AM   #15
KellyLynchIV

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as others have said ... tripod, ISO 100 (or as low as allowed), sharp aperture (f/8-f/12 ish), manual exposure, bulb or adjust exposure as you go. i would start with focus set to infinity but check the sharpness on your first images since you may need to adjust based on how far you are. took these this last 4th of july...







more and larger versions at the gallery ... http://dcpowell.zenfolio.com/p430866012.
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Old 11-02-2007, 02:22 AM   #16
DOWNLOADnowADOBEphotoSHOP

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Very nice
I dont think my cam will get shots like that [surrender]
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Old 11-02-2007, 03:32 AM   #17
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so a higher (or lower?) F stop can yield better picture quality/sharpness?

Interesting if true
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Old 11-02-2007, 09:55 AM   #18
slima

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so a higher (or lower?) F stop can yield better picture quality/sharpness?

Interesting if true
Yes it's true, and the degree of the effect varies from lens to lens. Most lenses are less sharp wide open than they are at F8, for example.
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Old 11-02-2007, 10:05 AM   #19
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I really want to say 'duck' but the pun and corn meters would break.
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Old 11-03-2007, 05:20 AM   #20
JJoon077

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so a higher (or lower?) F stop can yield better picture quality/sharpness?

Interesting if true
It depends on the lens. Most lens have a "sweet-spot" in terms of sharpeness, which varies depending on the lens design. Typically it is F8-F10. Much higher, and diffraction starts to affect image quality. Lower and softness can occur.
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