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#1 |
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#2 |
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handholding is going to be a problem. You need a slow enough shutter speed to get a full firework burst (ideally several bursts) but that will be too slow to handhold. Use a tripod and a cable release if you have one. If you have to handhold then you'll need a faster shutter speed, which will mean less firework in shot, and less feeling of movement.
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#3 |
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#4 |
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I've got the Canon A610 which has a setting for Firework shots, just havent got the hang of it yet. Thing is, its bloody hard work guessing where the little beggars are going to explode and when, because my camera seemed to take ages from pressing the button to actually taking the shot, more of than not I'd missed it
![]() Here's a couple I took at the World Firework Championships in Southport the other week, to be honest theyre the best of a bad bunch, I got better shots with my mobile phone ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#5 |
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I've got the Canon A610 which has a setting for Firework shots, just havent got the hang of it yet. Thing is, its bloody hard work guessing where the little beggars are going to explode and when, because my camera seemed to take ages from pressing the button to actually taking the shot, more of than not I'd missed it ![]() |
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#6 |
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The a710 has a manual setting, no?
If it does, you should be able to set the shutter speed to something like 8 seconds, the aperture to somewhere around f/11 or so and the ISO as low as it will go. Then just make use of the timer if you don't/can't use a cable release, pressing the shutter accordingly to get the firework in full bloom. The goal isn't to freeze the action of the explosion; it's to capture all the motion from the full range of the bloom, from the initial pop to the final descent in a billowing, flowery puff. Best of luck! |
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#7 |
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#8 |
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The a710 has a manual setting, no? |
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#9 |
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The aperture should be the square root of your ISO, shutter set to bulb (if available), lens focus set to infinite. Aim the lens at the sky where to fireworks go off, release the shutter when the "flower" starts and release when it starts to fade.
The result of some of my fireworks shootings: http://koti.mbnet.fi/mrwalker/fireworks/ |
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#11 |
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The aperture should be the square root of your ISO, shutter set to bulb (if available), lens focus set to infinite. Aim the lens at the sky where to fireworks go off, release the shutter when the "flower" starts and release when it starts to fade. great pics btw, i'll have to get my camera out on nov 5th and give it a go[thumbup] |
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#12 |
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The aperture should be the square root of your ISO, shutter set to bulb (if available), lens focus set to infinite. Aim the lens at the sky where to fireworks go off, release the shutter when the "flower" starts and release when it starts to fade. |
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#13 |
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what difference does that make btw? I always thought the ISO should be set as low as possible if light isn't so much of an issue ...and that aperture settings were really only used to get depth of field (what are the higher F stop settings used for?) |
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#14 |
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With a lighter or matches ?? ![]() I actually shot my first batch of fireworks without a cable release using my 30D w/ 70-200L using the method I described above. It was difficult to time because of the 10 second timer and the long exposure anywhere form 8 to 10 seconds, but as long as the exposure is still too low short to properly capture any of the surroundings, you can really go much longer without much noticeable difference. Maybe I'll post samples with exif later tonight when I finish my work. |
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#15 |
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as others have said ... tripod, ISO 100 (or as low as allowed), sharp aperture (f/8-f/12 ish), manual exposure, bulb or adjust exposure as you go. i would start with focus set to infinity but check the sharpness on your first images since you may need to adjust based on how far you are. took these this last 4th of july...
![]() ![]() ![]() more and larger versions at the gallery ... http://dcpowell.zenfolio.com/p430866012. |
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#20 |
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so a higher (or lower?) F stop can yield better picture quality/sharpness? |
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